Strozzapreti with Pesto alla Trapanese

A pesto you need to know starring tomatoes, almonds, capers, and basil

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As backyard gardens and farmers’ markets eek out the last of their summer fruits, there’s one bounty that rolls on stronger than ever: cherry tomatoes. Take advantage of that glut and try out this Sicilian pesto, based not on basil but rather a puree of tomatoes. It’s a very fast blend, thick with almonds, Pecorino Romano, capers, anchovies, golden raisins, and of course, garlic and basil. It’s basically an umami bomb, ready to dress those hand twisted slips of strozzapreti. The result: an instant trip to Italy.

Photography: Linda Pugliese, Food Styling: Jennifer Aaronson, Prop Styling: Paige Hicks, Recipe Testing: Pearl Jones

Last week we introduced you to a beautifully simple dough that (hopefully!) will inspire you to make homemade pasta, even on a weeknight when you only have thirty minutes to spend on dinner. The secret lies in the simplicity of semolina pasta dough— all you need is semolina flour, water, and your hands. That said, there are a number of things to keep in mind when you are making semolina flour pasta dough. Consider this list to be your class notes or those finer points we’d share with you if we were all sitting around the table rolling pasta together.

Semolina Flour: As with all things Italian, the quality of ingredients is of utmost importance, and for a dough that calls for only two ingredients, this is especially true. Our top choice for semolina flour is called semola di grano duro. It is imported from Italy and we find brands labeled rimacinata easiest to work with. Rimacinata is a remilled durum wheat that is finely ground, making it more receptive to receiving the water and thus producing a smoother dough. A coarse-grain semola di grano duro is still okay to use, but it will likely need more water than rimacinata and the dough may require more resting time before shaping.

Water: The amount of water (room temperature is best) you will need to add to the dough may differ every time you make pasta. The weather is a major determining factor: if it's humid, you will need less water; if it's dry, you may need more. Always start with the lower amount stated in the recipe, then add more if needed. The finished dough should feel like Play-Doh: not so wet that it’s sticking to your fingers or the board and not so dry that it’s hard to work with or sliding on the board. Keep a small finger bowl of water nearby while making the dough and during shaping. If the dough ever feels dry or too difficult to roll or shape, simply dip your fingertips into the water and dab the dough. A very small amount of water like this will go a long way in hydrating the dough.

Salt: This dough does not call for salt since the pasta will be seasoned in generously salted pasta water. Since pasta water is often used in the sauce itself (although not in the below recipe), it is important to understand the level of salt in the water. Taste the pasta water—it should taste good on its own (not as salty as the sea). Think of the pasta water as an ingredient just like all the others in the dish and pay it the same level of attention.

Scale: A kitchen scale is an essential tool for making this kind of pasta. For the best results, find one that measures in grams and make a habit of weighing both the flour and the water. Place a bowl on the scale, zero it out, then pour in the flour to the appropriate weight. Repeat with the water in a second bowl. (We have included cup measurements as well, but strongly recommend weighing your ingredients for the most consistent and reliably delicious pasta.)

Shaping: Pasta dough dries out quickly, so it is important to work as efficiently as possible. It’s best to shape the entire amount of dough in one session, using a portion at a time, and, ideally, cook the pasta straight away. Always keep the dough you’re not using under an overturned bowl or wrapped in plastic wrap so it doesn't dry out (and when you are first learning, consider working with even smaller amounts of dough at a time). Do not stress out about making all the shapes perfect or exactly the same size. Variety within the shapes will add a pleasing look, texture, and mouthfeel.

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Semolina Flour Pasta Dough

Serves 4

Semolina-based pasta dough was born out of necessity during times when eggs were scarce. The dough utilizes a hard-wheat semolina flour that is yellow in color and has a higher gluten content than regular flour. This is one of those doughs where exact measurements are meant to be a guide rather than a rule. The results will depend on the exact brand of semola di grano duro used, the temperature of the water, and even the humidity in the air. After making this dough a few times, you’ll learn to rely on the feel of the dough, not the exact formula, for the perfect outcome. The resulting pasta will have a good density and pleasing chew.